Halfway between cyberpunk style and businesswoman yearnings, winter fashion starts again. From the tailored jacket, complete with important shoulder pads, in perfect Eighties style. Among the first to prove it, together with Bottega Veneta it’s at Guccito Hermes it’s at Louis Vuittonthere are Dolce&Gabbana.
In their sci-fi collection dedicated to the metaverse and dominated by women similar to elegant video game heroines, the inverted triangle silhouette triumphs. And it brings to mind a quantity of imaginaries. Starting with modern one of Blade Runner (1982), the cult film by Ridley Scott in which Sean Young wears jackets with large, square shoulder pads.
But when we speak of prominent shoulders, next to post-modern accents, it is she who comes to mind, the Melanie Griffith of A career woman (1988). Shoulder pads or not, the jacket seems to be the staple of the winter wardrobe.
Worn over more or less wide trousers, as he had taught at the beginning of the eighties Giorgio Armani, which has made this garment the fulcrum of a revolutionary aesthetic that has influenced not only fashion but the way of life, for over forty years now. “The jacket – claims the stylist from Piacenza – was the first thing I wanted to put my signature on”.
However, if in the eighties wearing a jacket was a symbol of empowerment feminine, it is now just one of the many proposals of a fashion that seems to have rediscovered the universality of a basic and transversal garment.
This year the tailored jacket is not limited to female manager accents, nor to futuristic and cross-dressing ones – how she wears it Zendaya, with jeans and a men’s shirt – but it has many other variations. Flaunted nonchalantly on a t-shirt dress (Louis Vuitton), she provocatively put on a vamp skirt with crotch slit (Gucci), but above all surprisingly associated with light tulle dresses, as she does Gigi Hadid, expresses a universal language. Where tailoring rhymes with comfort.
